Engine Pulley Removal Installation

[matt]

   

............................................slight pop on the right side every now and then.  ;D

                                          Personality!
       

[Beetleboi -Greg-]

There was a Chitty Chitty Bang Bang style today on my way to work. People in Egg Harbor City started running LMAO.  ;D

[njgt-1]

There was a Chitty Chitty Bang Bang style today on my way to work. People in Egg Harbor City started running LMAO.

tight exhaust valve ?  Poof

timing too far advanced ?  Poof

not good......

[Beetleboi -Greg-]

happened again today bob. i was moving through the gears and this ja cut in front of me nearly taking off my treasured over riders. so i slammed down the clutch and pop. it only happens when the rpms are right before i need to shift and i put the clutch down quickly. if i let off the gas or foot the clutch down slowly its ok. dad realized i have 3 different types of push rod tubes no thermostadt and no bottom tin which i didnt even know was suppose to be there. my next project is to find the oil leak. i have to get a neon light and this stuff u put in the crank to help u find where the leak is coming from. my guess is behind the pully bc is getting all over the place evwn on the deck lid.

[6T5 square]

Like Bob said- you need to readjust your valves and reset your timing. When I first started out with these cars, I would run the FULL tune up procedure stated in the Muir Idiot Manual. This would help my car tremendously. Now with yours , are you running an after market distributor? It shouldn't be too difficult to set your timing. Hell, after you've been around these cars long enough, most of us can set them by ear.
Give me info on your car- what year, engine serial number- it's stamped on the front of the motor above the large pulley. Is the distributor original or is it an aftermarket- if so, what kind? Original carbs?

I know you own an idiot manual (you said so previously) I think you need to set aside a day where you can park the car in a shady spot( your engine needs to be cold when you check valves) and run the entire tune up procedure. I know you don't have much free time but your doing internal damage to your motor running like that.

[njgt-1]

Greg,

you said you adjusted the valves ? was it popping before this or after ?
If after it sounds like you didn't have something at TDC or BDC and a valve is hanging open.

John,

He has an SVDA dizzy from Aircooled .net. don't know much about the specs on that one.

[scarecrow]

I have an SVDA from Air Cooled. It's set at 7.5 degs BTDC per thier instructions & it's reindexed by one rotor positon counter clockwise. As for my engine tin I"m running only a dog house cooler with no flaps, top cylinder tin & the pieces between the clylinders above the push rod tubes (same as a Baja set up) Granted I running a Baja style open engine bay. Carb is 34 pict 3 set at 900 rpm idle. Have zero problems with my set up. For what its worth my carb came from MOFOCO & they set up the carbs for you on a running engine & tested before they ship. Al I had to do was bump up the idle mixture about a 1/4 turn.

[njgt-1]

For what its worth my carb came from MOFOCO & they set up the carbs for you on a running engine & tested before they ship. Al I had to do was bump up the idle mixture about a 1/4 turn.

Yea,

ask me about them some time off line - this is a PG site!

I"m running only a dog house cooler with no flaps, top cylinder tin & the pieces between the clylinders above the push rod tubes (same as a Baja set up) Granted I running a Baja style open engine bay. Carb is 34 pict 3 set at 900 rpm idle. Have zero problems with my set up.

for now but I highly recommend putting the flaps in some time soon. My Bradley GT has the usual kit car open bay and I'm running everything, flaps, deflectors & thermostat. If VW could save a buck on each car they would have never used them in the first place. Its just false security to not use them. ( sorry for the rant its a rough spot with me ) 

[scarecrow]

Yea,

ask me about them some time off line - this is a PG site!

for now but I highly recommend putting the flaps in some time soon. My Bradley GT has the usual kit car open bay and I'm running everything, flaps, deflectors & thermostat. If VW could save a buck on each car they would have never used them in the first place. Its just false security to not use them. ( sorry for the rant its a rough spot with me ) 

I understand, almost everyone I've mentioned MOFOCO to has a problem with them. Speaking only for myself I hear that they have changed, I am very pleased with my carb & my trans came form them to. Maybe I was just lucky. In regards to the engine tin, I run a full set of guages, oil pressure, oil temp & cylinder head temp, all readings are exactly where they are suposed to be. Not recommending running that anyone should run less than full factory tin just that I have no problems with my setup

[Beetleboi -Greg-]

John, Bob, dad and I ran through the whole thing on Wednesday let the car sit over night, first the valves and then we took it around the block to do the fast idle cam *or the screw that faces towards the back* then we set the timing statically and checked it with the hose off and plugged. We then adjusted the idle between 880-900. It seems to fluxuate.

John

The carb is a stock 34 pic 3

Dizzy is an Aircooled SVDA

Bug was timed at 7.5 BTDC which is what the link jack gave me said, and also the guy from the Bug me Video

*walks outside to get Engine Code*

AH180749 is the Engine Code

Dad's looking over the car tomorrow while at work, the points arn't wearing evenly so we're going to swap out the points out of his new Dizzy that he hasn't put in yet.

He's going to re-check the point gaps etc.

The car doesn't always back fire, it's tempermental. The RPMS have to fall at a certain speed from a certain left for this to happen. Otherwise it runs great. The timing was dead on. It didn't backfire before we timed it but it did rumble when you let off the accerator w/o pushing down the clutch. It also ran very poorly before, trouble starting, warming up, bogging down while at a steady speed.

Cept for the backfiring, it runs great. Hopefully something just went out of adjustment.
8)

[bugs2much]

Yep, what he said (got that from John)

Ran fine tonight nice and smooooooth, couldn't make it act up. Did however, notice during tune up Wed. slight pop from #1 or 2 cyl. So slight that if you weren't listening for anything special, if that makes any sense, you wouldn't hear it. Thought it maybe a "sticky" valve or bent push rod. Will check valve adjustments again and valve travel. Also will switch out points that are a little crappy, not wearing evenly. Points maybe the culprit.

[matt]

                  We then adjusted the idle between 880-900. It seems to fluxuate.

8)

  Is there small vacuum leak? bad carb bushing?
                    anyone check?


M

[Beetleboi -Greg-]

Vaccum good and tight. Carb is new. I believe when I was over Jack's he had sprayed the bushings on the intake manifold to check for leaks there, and I think they were ok because he didn't say anything. I know when they start cracking, air gets sucked in and may cause a backfire.

Maybe I'll just apply for a 5,000 Scat Credit Card and buy a new turn key   ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D

[lovebus (jack)]

Yea,

ask me about them some time off line - this is a PG site!

NO, don't ask him, I don't feel the love here, I just feel  m-d &m&

[Beetleboi -Greg-]

I found a layaway site for turn-key engines in Maryland!!!! I wonder percentage they expect. I wish I could crack into my savings bonds. ;D