SJVWC Forums
Archive => Archive board => Engine Shop => Topic started by: Beetleboi -Greg- on November 18, 2007, 07:52:28 pm
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So Jerry told my dad that the vaccuum advance isn't working. He told my dad this is the reason why the engine hesitates to pick up speed.
Has anyone heard anything about pulling of the dis cap and the blowing into the hose that goes into the carb to see if a plate moves? Is this an
effective way to check that the vacuum advance works?
This is the only vacuum advance I found online.. is that a reasonable price?
http://www.evwparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=07102&Category_Code=Bug68upTune
Also my dad was thinking that maybe the reason why the car failed emissions was because the choke got stuck and didn't open. In the idiot book it mentions disabling the choke all togather. Has anyone tried this? Let me know what you guys think. Muir said he use to roll his cigarette and by the time he was done the engine was warm enough to drive.
-Greg-
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Greg,
Applying vacuum to the line going to the advance on the dizzy will cause the small arm inside to move. You will have to pull the distributor cap to see it.
Muir was famous for hating the automatic choke. The simple fact is that your car will be hard to start in cold weather without it. All my dual carb setups don't use chokes and they are tough to get going in cold weather. I'd suggest keeping the choke and just checking to be sure its not hanging up on some crap in the carb. Also if the choke coil is connected and working properly after a few minutes the choke should be fully opened. If it isn't then I'd check the adjustment and then the choke coil to see if its getting warm. If you decide to take the car to an independent garage for the re inspection they should be able to tell if the choke is sticking and possibly fix it before the emissions test.
as always > 2CENTS
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Ok thanks Bob, I'm probably taking it to Rick for the ball joints and the emissions work. I'll talk to him about the choke when I bring Bridgette to him.
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I'm probably taking it to Rick for the ball joints and the emissions work. I'll talk to him about the choke when I bring Bridgette to him.
That is the best thing you can do to get it right. If your choke isnt working he can back it off for you, but you should get a new dist. with Vac. Advance.
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Greg,
Hey, let me know what they charge you for doing the ball joints. If I ever get mine to run, I will need to have my ball joints done as well. I purchased a new sva distrubitor for about 60.00 from cip1.com
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I need the whole dis not just the vacuum advance?
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Should I go for the Bosch 009 If I'm going to have to get a new dis anyways?
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Beetleboi dist are cheap enough go to cip1 and get yourself a nice new one with vac advance. For the price there not worth playing with my 2CENTS you really should stick with the vac advance
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Alrighty, I will start saving up. I sense some Christmas money coming to me very shortly.
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Get exactly what ol' 3 gear got.
Best distrib to buy.
M
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What did he get?
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Greg,
Hey, let me know what they charge you for doing the ball joints. If I ever get mine to run, I will need to have my ball joints done as well. I purchased a new sva distrubitor for about 60.00 from cip1.com
a new sva distrubitor
single vacuum advance distrib. typically a 009 with a vacuum unit
Matt
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The vacuum on my dis is a dual, shouldn't I get another dis with a dual vacuum?
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Nope,
don't make them anymore, dual was used to decrease smog emissions stoned#
Changing a distrib means you have to change your timing appropriately for that distrib.
For the purist, .......I have I thnk 2 extra dual distrib.s
Matt
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Wont there be an extra hose on my carb for where the other vacuum line should go? I'd rather not have things plugged up but if that's what I have to do that's what I have to do. I was also thinking about getting a re built carb to solve the choke problem if that is what the problem is, carb is junk anyways, should I get one to match the single vaccum dis?
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I looked on the website for distributors but I didn't see any for 60 bucks. :-\
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I'm thinking now that maybe my vacuum lines arn't right or switch. I'm going to have to look at it when I get home tomorrow.
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dual distrib if for 34pict3 carb. as well as are other distrib.s
you can still get these carbs.
Yes you will have to plug a line to the carb. frequently done. Mine has 2 lines plugged. as I have a 009. I also have a svda but not have put that on, as my car runs good as is, since I took Bobs advice and increased my carb jet for my 1776 engine - no flat spots.
why is the carb junk?
Matt
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Cause the cog or whatever that the screw that face back that you screw in to adjust idle is all wobbly. Some times the screw falls off the cog.
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Cause the cog or whatever that the screw that face back that you screw in to adjust idle is all wobbly. Some times the screw falls off the cog.
Greg
If your carb is a 34 PICT-3 ( you can check this by the numbers on the left side ) that cam is the fast idle cam and the screw isn't the one you set for the idle. When the carb is closed that screw should be off of the lowest setting on the cam by 1/16" or so. The carb was designed to idle with the throttle plate completely closed. the idle is set by the large screw on the left side. There should be 2 screws one to adjust just the air and one for the idle. If you are having issues with that carb check your copy of the Muir book for instructions on setting the Solex 34 PICT-3 thats the answer.
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Turns out that the fast idle screw isn't the right one. It was replaced by an ordinary screw. I'm not messing with the carb until it is looked at by the people at the emissions place. I'm just going to pop off the air cleaner to see if it's choke is opening all the way when warm.