well got the steering box out of weezer tonight. (After having to empty out 8 gallons of gas &m&) It matches up nicely with the new one I've got so hopefully the install will go smoother. What's driving me nuts right now is I have to take a part off the old box to put it on the new one. I don't know the name and I'm too damn tired to get up and go out to the garage to look at it but its the rubber/ metal piece that connects the steering gear to the steering wheel. There is one bolt that squeezes the clamp onto the post that comes out of the gear box and I have been trying for an hour to remove it from the box. I've been soaking it, heating and beating it but it's going nowhere. So I'm stopping now before I beak the damn thing.
I think we all just need to walk away from things every now and then. Keeps you from breaking things you can't fix.
Adios.
Quote from: 6T5 square on June 13, 2008, 09:41:27 PM
I don't know the name and I'm too damn tired to get up and go out to the garage to look at it but its the rubber/ metal piece that connects the steering gear to the steering wheel.
Adios.
That part is called Rubber/Metal Steering Coupler piece.
well freakin thanks there buddy! No pearls of wisdom on getting it off, though!? m-d
Good night Jack
John. I think that your talking about the "Pinch Clamp" that has one bolt in it and thightens onto the end of the stearing shaft. The other round rubber like part with the four bolts is the "streering coupler"
I've never seen a steering coupler with rusted or tight nuts that would come off, so I'm guessing that your talking about the pinch clamp that should have one bolt and nut in it. Oh by the way they usually also have a small piece of metal peaned over ontop of the nut to act as a locking tab. Have you tried PB Blaster pentrating oil? If you really need to get it off you might have to cut it off and replace it with another type locking nut and bolt. Perhaps a bolt and nylon cap nut? If all else fails gifsawsall
Good luck let me know if you need an extra set of hands. Jay
John,
if that piece is anything like a type 1 the bolt sits in a groove on the shaft to lock it in place. its probably rusted together so like the last couple of post said, penetrating oil & heat is your friend. Had something like that happen on the GT a couple of years ago when I replaced the steering box, shaft & coupler.
Bob is right about the bolt being in a grove and you have to get the bolt out to slide it off, you can't just loosen it. if you distroy the bolt just use a differant one.
The bolt isnt the issue- that came out right away. No problem. The issue is the clamp itself is rusted onto the steering post. i've been soaking it over night so when I get out there this morning, I'll see if it gives up the ghost. I just don't want to destroy the clamp.
PS, if you do replace any bolts on your steering they should be grade 10.
Ah-aaaaa just cut the freaking thing off gifsawsall, and weld it back on with some JB weld. At ought 2 doodle-it... shocked
Luckily I saw jays advice after I got the coupler apart. Heated the b jeebers out of it and it finally broke free from satans grip. I have the new one in the car and I just have to tighten things up but I should be able to test drive it tonight. still have to get an alignment. I'm on a beer break right now. Got some dirt in my eye. Really should be wearing glasses. So I'll put on my beer glasses and all will be better.
Something intresting I learned. The bottom bracket on the mounting gear is supposed to go in a certian way. Seems it has to line up with a notch underneath on the beam. Maybe this is why the old box would loosen up a nut every now and then. Guess the last time, I had the bracket on backwards.
Just like going to college. c23
If your tank is in the front, is that cap in the back for the oil?
QuoteSomething intresting I learned. The bottom bracket on the mounting gear is supposed to go in a certian way. Seems it has to line up with a notch underneath on the beam.
John,
Don't know about a type 3 but the notch & tab on a t-1 is important since it sets the angle of the steering box to the shaft. On a t-1 the clamp has 2 notches, one for a beetle and 1 for a Karman Ghia, they both have different angles on the steering box. Now how did I know this? when I redid the Bradley neither position was steep enough for the steering shaft. I have the original build manual but theres nothing about this it just says to "match the angle". I took a file and cut a third notch in my clamp so the angle was much steeper than either stock position but matches the steering shaft perfectly.
These cars can drive you nuts!
Quote from: Beetleboi on June 14, 2008, 07:15:02 PM
If your tank is in the front, is that cap in the back for the oil?
Yup.
Quote from: njgt-1 on June 15, 2008, 07:51:08 AM
John,
Don't know about a type 3 but the notch & tab on a t-1 is important since it sets the angle of the steering box to the shaft. On a t-1 the clamp has 2 notches, one for a beetle and 1 for a Karman Ghia, they both have different angles on the steering box.
On one side it's for "variants (squares) and sedans". the other side is for Karman Ghias. Luckily it's fully explained and pictured in the Bentley Manual
QuoteOn one side it's for "variants (squares) and sedans". the other side is for Karman Ghias.
would that be t-3 ghias ? just wondering
Quote from: njgt-1 on June 15, 2008, 03:57:14 PM
would that be t-3 ghias ? just wondering
Dont know- just says ghias
Must be a lot easier to put oil in with that placement. I have to find a better funnel for when I change oil.