SJVWC Forums
Archive => Archive board => Engine Shop => Topic started by: Beetleboi -Greg- on June 22, 2008, 03:26:21 pm
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Does anyone have any info on Engine Pulley Removal/Installation? Found a black degree pulley for 41 bucks wanted to find out what I'm getting myself into before I buy it.
Thanks,
Greg
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Not too bad, if you are very careful, you can pry, but some can be very stubborn.
Did one once while engine was in, had a nice little special pry bar, and it came off without much prob.
Friend of mine tried it, could not get his off
There is a cheap puller you can buy, and I think it will accommodate what little space you have in the engine compartment to pull it.
Why do you want a degree wheel? - looks?
Matt
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Just to be on the safe side of where my timing should be. I'd feel more comfortable setting it by numbers instead of notches that may be wrong. I also have a feeling that the one on it is the wrong pulley.
Thanks for the info Matt, I'll keep an eye out for the degree pulley...puller.
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Greg,
Just make sure what you buy is marked correctly. Sometimes the numbers can be off a bit on the aftermarket stuff. You just might be better off marking your stock pulley with a notch or something that won't rub off. All you need is your timing mark, TDC ( top dead center ) and BDC ( bottom dead center ).
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do you have any brands that u can reccomend? would i be able to buy a stock pully by the engine code i know the one on it has two notches and a dimple. and paint for bdc
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on a stock engine its not really necessary, no power increase just for looks only.
I'd try to figure out what marks are on your pulley, and just repaint the stocker. Then you can always scribe a couple of lines or put a small notch in the 3 spots.
just my 2CENTS
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it would be for ease of tuning not for power increse. maybe dad and i can pull the first plug out and remark the pully. which plug do u pull to find bdc or do u just measure 180 around from tdc
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OK now I have to go into my "Zen Master" personality......Ahem.... Poof
Honorable Greg-a-son.. Chinnese
the way to the much honored path to vw enlightment vwlogo can be found in the sacred book of all knowledge, the famous and many times forgotten book written by Saint Muir, !5! For it is written in the sacred scripts that the way to true "air cooled enlightment" may be found in this all knowing publication known as "the idiot book". Many have followed down the evil path of "Bolt on accessories" :evil: :evil: :evil: only to find their soul wrenched by the poor performance their sacred VW gives in return. m-d2 Remember grasshopper.. all the answers you seek have been through questions others have already asked and you may learn from their knowledge or be struck down by the "Sheer white light of stupidity" 184 for not following their trail........
OK changing back to Bob.... Poof
Yea, like the zen dude said check out the idiot book he has a complete section on finding out what you want to know!
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im just going to have to keep my book at work. i had one copy here and must have taken it home. i will read up one it tonight after practice
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It only goes on one way. To be sure make sure #1 cylinder is at TDC. Distributor rotor will be at #1 cylinder fire postion which is marked on the distributor unlessless it's been reindexed. Excisting pully should be at TDC. Speaking only for myself, the old one came off & new one went on with no problems. Numbers on my new pully were dead on. I used a Scat unit
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If you go to what you think is TDC as outlined above, you can pull #1 plug (closest to passenger) put a pencil down the hole eraser end first, and turn the pulley wheel a little either way. Keep ya finger on the pencil point so you can feel movment. Where the pencil is now at TDC, you should not feel any upward travel, just downward as the pencil is riding on the piston and this is TDC. If you are notched at TDC with the crankcase, and feel downward movment from this point when you turn the pulley wheel then............hmmm....
I think this is what Master Bob was alluding to. - BUT DO READ the Muir. good to double check me; always. ( my disclaimer)
Long time ago I bought a stick-on degree pulley ring sticker that goes onto degreed pulley rings if/when their numbers get rubbed off. I keep it as a check on pulley wheels like what you have to check the notches. I just hold the TDC label of the ring against the pulley TDC and look at the degrees of the other notches. Not Nachos, notches!
Can look for that in catalogs if you want. But really not necessary. Remember your distrib model determines it's ATDC/BTDC for stock engines anyway.....
M
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Hey don't you remember the famous words of those who have worked on these engines for years, "if it ain't broke don't fix it". You have the marks (notches),on the pulley already and I have the white paint to mark the correct notch. I think it's 5 deg BTDC.
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I'm with your Dad on this one. Your pulley was made for your car. The aftermarket one was made for any car. Learn the notches on the flywheel you have. Hell, if you want to drive out here this weekend, I'll even show you how to use it. sjvwc.ico
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Hey don't you remember the famous words of those who have worked on these engines for years, "if it ain't broke don't fix it". You have the marks (notches),on the pulley already and I have the white paint to mark the correct notch. I think it's 5 deg BTDC.
Poof Honorable Greg-a-son..,
you should heed the words of wisdom from Pappa-san, he speaks with the wisdom of the ages and the fire from the great dragon of knowledge which rules the VW universe! Chinnese
Translation:
Ok kid listen to your Dad he's right!
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Air-cooled said my timing has to be TDC not 5 Before TDC. So I dunno who to go with. The motor, or the instructions that came with their distributor. I'm going to double check with them too see what's going on.
I tuned it last time to the Muir book and it still ran like crap. Maybe I'll just open up my wallet and take it somewhere.
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This is from VW-Resourses
009 and SVDA distributors: Measure on the rim of the crankcase pulley 11.5 mm to the right of the TDC notch. This is 7.5o BTDC; mark this point with white paint. This is the point at which the centrifugal advance (009) and single-vacuum dual-advance (SVDA) distributors are preliminarily timed (the maximum advance at 3500 rpm will be the final timing point for these distributors).
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Different from the Muir I guess because the stock dizzy was a dual vacuum single advance. Waiting on the e-mail from air-cooled. Right now it is tuned to TDC... which might be the problem. drive&&
I'll hack at it on Wednesday, I just know that pinging isn't good and that's what it's doing.
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Ya know Greg, we went through all of this before f+t with you and you were refered to http://sjvwc.net/forums/index.php/topic,3006.0.html
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i dont remember ever clicking that link. ill re set it a ccording to that link. sorry jack :-( if it still pings off to the garage it goes.
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IF ITS PINING IT ADVANCED TO MUCH.
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Hey Greg. Didn't you see my beautiful, shiny, chrome, heavy duty, antique strobe light and tach. They work. All we need is the correct timing mark on the pulley.
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wake me up at 9 so we can re time it with the light. ill move the avalon so i can do the valves.
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Hey Greg. Didn't you see my beautiful, shiny, chrome, heavy duty, antique strobe light and tach. They work. All we need is the correct timing mark on the pulley.
wake me up at 9 so we can re time it with the light. ill move the avalon so i can do the valves.
GOOD GOD MAN, This is turning into an episode of "Ozzy and Harriet" !!
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GOOD GOD MAN, This is turning into an episode of "Ozzy and Harriet" !!
LoL LoL LoL .whn's the next episode!
M
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I don't know Matt you will have to wait to see what happens tomorrow. LOL
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"Ok Rickey, you and David help dad......... ( fill in what ever you want here )"
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lol is that from lassie? i wish faces were easier on mobile internet. scratching head smiley ???
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ol is that from lassie?
do a U-tube search on "Ozzy & Harriet" very funny comedy on TV back in the 50's
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that was back when tv shows had morals and wernt just t and a. time to count the daily earnings and mop. i am way to easy on my employees. (love
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Timing ok, valve gap wasn't correct ne more and carb was wayyyyy off. Runs great now, no pings, slight pop on the right side every now and then. ;D
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............................................slight pop on the right side every now and then. ;D
Personality!
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There was a Chitty Chitty Bang Bang style today on my way to work. People in Egg Harbor City started running LMAO. ;D
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There was a Chitty Chitty Bang Bang style today on my way to work. People in Egg Harbor City started running LMAO.
tight exhaust valve ? Poof
timing too far advanced ? Poof
not good......
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happened again today bob. i was moving through the gears and this ja cut in front of me nearly taking off my treasured over riders. so i slammed down the clutch and pop. it only happens when the rpms are right before i need to shift and i put the clutch down quickly. if i let off the gas or foot the clutch down slowly its ok. dad realized i have 3 different types of push rod tubes no thermostadt and no bottom tin which i didnt even know was suppose to be there. my next project is to find the oil leak. i have to get a neon light and this stuff u put in the crank to help u find where the leak is coming from. my guess is behind the pully bc is getting all over the place evwn on the deck lid.
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Like Bob said- you need to readjust your valves and reset your timing. When I first started out with these cars, I would run the FULL tune up procedure stated in the Muir Idiot Manual. This would help my car tremendously. Now with yours , are you running an after market distributor? It shouldn't be too difficult to set your timing. Hell, after you've been around these cars long enough, most of us can set them by ear.
Give me info on your car- what year, engine serial number- it's stamped on the front of the motor above the large pulley. Is the distributor original or is it an aftermarket- if so, what kind? Original carbs?
I know you own an idiot manual (you said so previously) I think you need to set aside a day where you can park the car in a shady spot( your engine needs to be cold when you check valves) and run the entire tune up procedure. I know you don't have much free time but your doing internal damage to your motor running like that.
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Greg,
you said you adjusted the valves ? was it popping before this or after ?
If after it sounds like you didn't have something at TDC or BDC and a valve is hanging open.
John,
He has an SVDA dizzy from Aircooled .net. don't know much about the specs on that one.
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I have an SVDA from Air Cooled. It's set at 7.5 degs BTDC per thier instructions & it's reindexed by one rotor positon counter clockwise. As for my engine tin I"m running only a dog house cooler with no flaps, top cylinder tin & the pieces between the clylinders above the push rod tubes (same as a Baja set up) Granted I running a Baja style open engine bay. Carb is 34 pict 3 set at 900 rpm idle. Have zero problems with my set up. For what its worth my carb came from MOFOCO & they set up the carbs for you on a running engine & tested before they ship. Al I had to do was bump up the idle mixture about a 1/4 turn.
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For what its worth my carb came from MOFOCO & they set up the carbs for you on a running engine & tested before they ship. Al I had to do was bump up the idle mixture about a 1/4 turn.
Yea,
ask me about them some time off line - this is a PG site!
I"m running only a dog house cooler with no flaps, top cylinder tin & the pieces between the clylinders above the push rod tubes (same as a Baja set up) Granted I running a Baja style open engine bay. Carb is 34 pict 3 set at 900 rpm idle. Have zero problems with my set up.
for now but I highly recommend putting the flaps in some time soon. My Bradley GT has the usual kit car open bay and I'm running everything, flaps, deflectors & thermostat. If VW could save a buck on each car they would have never used them in the first place. Its just false security to not use them. ( sorry for the rant its a rough spot with me )
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Yea,
ask me about them some time off line - this is a PG site!
for now but I highly recommend putting the flaps in some time soon. My Bradley GT has the usual kit car open bay and I'm running everything, flaps, deflectors & thermostat. If VW could save a buck on each car they would have never used them in the first place. Its just false security to not use them. ( sorry for the rant its a rough spot with me )
I understand, almost everyone I've mentioned MOFOCO to has a problem with them. Speaking only for myself I hear that they have changed, I am very pleased with my carb & my trans came form them to. Maybe I was just lucky. In regards to the engine tin, I run a full set of guages, oil pressure, oil temp & cylinder head temp, all readings are exactly where they are suposed to be. Not recommending running that anyone should run less than full factory tin just that I have no problems with my setup
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John, Bob, dad and I ran through the whole thing on Wednesday let the car sit over night, first the valves and then we took it around the block to do the fast idle cam *or the screw that faces towards the back* then we set the timing statically and checked it with the hose off and plugged. We then adjusted the idle between 880-900. It seems to fluxuate.
John
The carb is a stock 34 pic 3
Dizzy is an Aircooled SVDA
Bug was timed at 7.5 BTDC which is what the link jack gave me said, and also the guy from the Bug me Video
*walks outside to get Engine Code*
AH180749 is the Engine Code
Dad's looking over the car tomorrow while at work, the points arn't wearing evenly so we're going to swap out the points out of his new Dizzy that he hasn't put in yet.
He's going to re-check the point gaps etc.
The car doesn't always back fire, it's tempermental. The RPMS have to fall at a certain speed from a certain left for this to happen. Otherwise it runs great. The timing was dead on. It didn't backfire before we timed it but it did rumble when you let off the accerator w/o pushing down the clutch. It also ran very poorly before, trouble starting, warming up, bogging down while at a steady speed.
Cept for the backfiring, it runs great. Hopefully something just went out of adjustment.
8)
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Yep, what he said (got that from John)
Ran fine tonight nice and smooooooth, couldn't make it act up. Did however, notice during tune up Wed. slight pop from #1 or 2 cyl. So slight that if you weren't listening for anything special, if that makes any sense, you wouldn't hear it. Thought it maybe a "sticky" valve or bent push rod. Will check valve adjustments again and valve travel. Also will switch out points that are a little crappy, not wearing evenly. Points maybe the culprit.
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We then adjusted the idle between 880-900. It seems to fluxuate.
8)
Is there small vacuum leak? bad carb bushing?
anyone check?
M
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Vaccum good and tight. Carb is new. I believe when I was over Jack's he had sprayed the bushings on the intake manifold to check for leaks there, and I think they were ok because he didn't say anything. I know when they start cracking, air gets sucked in and may cause a backfire.
Maybe I'll just apply for a 5,000 Scat Credit Card and buy a new turn key ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
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Yea,
ask me about them some time off line - this is a PG site!
NO, don't ask him, I don't feel the love here, I just feel m-d &m&
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I found a layaway site for turn-key engines in Maryland!!!! I wonder percentage they expect. I wish I could crack into my savings bonds. ;D
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NO, don't ask him, I don't feel the love here, I just feel
when you get a $2800.00 screwing from a vendor you just might not be feeling the love fig2 f+t shocked m-d2 m-d &m& :icon_evil: etc.
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Slow down ,boy! Bob can't be building another one in his basement just yet.
Learn how to fix the one you have and it will make buying a new engine alot easier. Besides, if the new one breaks down, what are you going to do? buy another one?
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I will attach a big gerbil to my transmission. :D :D :D :D :D
I just don't get it, someone at work who "worked on VW's" said I'm running rich. Which is what I was guessing too, but it's why does it only backfire at 50mph. It doesn't do the same thing at the same RPM at any other gears. There is no rumbling from the tail pipes which is what it was doing before. Timing is right on, has vacuume, valves are set correctly, it longer pings. Maybe the new dizzy wasn't designed for the high test gas. There's a guy down the street who work's on bugs, If I can get a hold of him we are going to take it down to him. If adjusting the fuel mixture screw has no effect we have nothing else to check.
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I know I'm beating a dead horse, but how bad can my engine be running...
I promise this will be my last rant about this till I get the results from the mechanic
I really don't want him to retune the whole car, because it's running great. >:(
Test drove it last night last time before the drive to the garage hoping by some miracle the problem fixed itself.
Checked for air where the front and back meet the muffler/heater tubes. There was no air coming out, there was air coming out from the bottom of the engine, but I think that's because I don't have the bottom tin and it was coming down from the cooling fan. I took it for a test drive last night for the last time before taking it to the doctor.
I drive it to first let off quick off the gas no pop. Started over again, Drove it through first put down the brake before clutch no pop, drove it through first again clutch brake no pop.
Repeat for 2 and 3rd gear.
4th gear drove up to 50 let off the gas quickly put on the brake w/o clutch BLAM!
4th gear clutch nothing
4h gear quickly left off the gas nothing.
No crackles, no pops, only a BLAM when hitting the brake before clutch in 4th gear.
Maybe I'm just stupid since you arn't going suppose to hit the brake before the clutch but it happened in an emergency once, and then it backfired.
Am I just paranoid? Should I just forget about it and learn how to drive correctly?
The car runs great, i must say it's never felt this good.
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The mechanic just called....the tone in her voice didn't sound goood. I have to call her back in 5 minutes. :-\
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I know I'm beating a dead horse, YES, YES, YES YES but how bad can my engine be running...
I promise this will be my last rant WONDERFUL YAaaa
Am I just paranoid? YES Should I just forget about it and learn how to drive correctly? YES, YES and YES PLEASE!!!
The car runs great, Then just drive the dam thing