Since I'm sitting around waiting for parts to come in, I might as well put in weezer's stereo. I like the look of the type 3 dash and dont want to mess it up by cutting an awful looking, point of no return hole in my irreplaceable dash board (no, you can't get these anywhere) so I've decided to go stealth by putting it in the glove box. The problem is mounting the radio into the box with out using the hammer
(http://www.sjvwc.net/coppermine/albums/userpics/type3stuff_001.jpg)
The glove box comes out pretty easy. You type one guys may be different but with mine, there is a strap that goes around the back of the box that comes off with one phillips screww and then unscrew the 2 screws that hold in the catch plate for the door release. Then just work the box out under the dash and it comes right out. I know you type one guys have access to the glove box through the front trunk area but on type threes they don't. Solid wall. So I'm laying on my back alot. After taking out the box, I removed the stereo from the package and found two flat mounting brackets, some screws and some wires. Oh yeah, Bob- I found out it does have a remote! I screwed the brackets into the sides of the radio and bent them outwards, this way I can try and figure out some kind of mounting bracket
(http://www.sjvwc.net/coppermine/albums/userpics/type3stuff_002.jpg)
I found that when I bent the brackets outward they were wider then the box, so I cut two slits in the side of the box so I could have the brackets sticking out of the sides of the glove box, giving me something to secure them to
(http://www.sjvwc.net/coppermine/albums/userpics/type3stuff_005.jpg)
I then looked at the back of the radio to look at the wire hook ups
(http://www.sjvwc.net/coppermine/albums/userpics/type3stuff_003.jpg)
Notice how the wire hook ups are on the outside and the middle is empty with only a mounting screw hole to worry about. I carefully measured them, marked it onto a piece of masking tape and placed it acrosss the front of the stereo. I then placed the stereo into the glovebox and secured it into the position I wanted it mounted into.
(http://www.sjvwc.net/coppermine/albums/userpics/type3stuff_004.jpg)
This enabled me to properly measure on top of the glove box and then transfer those measurements to the back of the glove box
(http://www.sjvwc.net/coppermine/albums/userpics/type3stuff_006.jpg)
I then took a handy dandy dremel tool and cut the appropriate holes in the back of the box.
(http://www.sjvwc.net/coppermine/albums/userpics/type3stuff_007.jpg)
At this point last night, I was getting tired and decided to stop. Part two is coming up soon!
Nice :icon_thumleft: Here's a link for a company that makes a one piece stereo speaker that may fit you stock speaker location
http://www.vintagecarradio.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=2&products_id=9&osCsid=rvpihdc2t8ctp2shmm5ir50235 (http://www.vintagecarradio.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=2&products_id=9&osCsid=rvpihdc2t8ctp2shmm5ir50235)
Nice lay out job John, looks like you can still use the original mounting strap. :icon_wink:
Good job!
looks almost like the Sony in my truck. The remote is real handy since you don't have to take your eyes off the road to change stations. The truck was easier I just bought an adapter plate and a special set of plugs that wired to the stereo and plugged into the trucks original speakers and power source and vola! one installed stereo. Your install in the glove box will be a clean one and the remote is going to come in handy. Keep posting photos, it would help out a lot of us type 1 guys who are considering the same thing.
Soooo
If you all remmember in the last episode I cut the back of the glove box so I may have access to the wire plugs. Also, as you can see from this next shot, on the back of the stereo there is a mounting screw hole. I bent a small piece of aluminum around a small nail punch and drilled a hole in the end of it. I then screwed the the aluminum piece to the back of the unit and then threaded a cable tie through it.
(http://www.sjvwc.net/coppermine/albums/userpics/type3stuff_011.jpg)
This cable tie will then go around the center piece of the back of the glove box, thus preventing it from sliding in and out of the glove box
Next step was to work on the face plate. I took a piece of cardboard and after trimming it with scissors for about 20 minutes, got it to fit into the box where I needed it. I didn't cut out the area for the stereo just yet. If I did, the cardboard would bend or tear easily.
(http://www.sjvwc.net/coppermine/albums/userpics/type3stuff_008~0.jpg)
So I used the full plate to cut out a piece of rigid board. Only thing I had around was some old peg board material. I didn't want to use plywood because it's too thick. You would have to taper in the sides in order for it to sit in the box evenly.
After cutting the basic shape of the plate, I then continued with the scissors cutting the template and then transfered the outline of the stereo onto the peg board. After the cutting was done, I just needed to keep trimming and fitting until the face plate fit in the way I wanted it to.
(http://www.sjvwc.net/coppermine/albums/userpics/type3stuff_010.jpg)
When I was happy with the face plate fit, it came time to finish it. Luckily the last time I did upholestry work on weezer, I save all my scrap vinyl. I had a nice piece that was large enough so I laid the vinyl down on a clean board, placed the face plate down on the fabric and traced it
(http://www.sjvwc.net/coppermine/albums/userpics/type3stuff_013.jpg)
Got out my handy dandy scissors and cut around the fabric.
Now I have glued the fabric onto the face plate but I need to stop here so I can catch up on my photos.
Tommorrow I'll finish this up and post my finished photos.
Very good John, be cool to see it finished!
Matt
Hey all.
Well i got the glove box installed and I'm soldering all my connections now but I have a general question for all. What is the best way to tap into a hot lead on the fuse box? I thought of putting a piggy back male lead on the back of the box but then I started wondering if anybody has tried anything different or cool.
Thanks for the input.
PS- more pics to come
Piggyback it. You probably have to hook up two hot leads though. One works with key switch for power and one is hot all the time for the clock/memory function. If you put power to both leads all the time you will have to remeber to turn the radio off every time.
there are two hot leads out of the stereo. Should they go to the same fuse or should I keep them seperate on two fuses?
keep them together to an always hot on the fuse box then you can play the radio with the key off.
What color are they? Red is + ... Yellow is for the dash lights... Blue is for amps or power antenna (It goes hot when you turn the radio on)
John one goes to the ignition the other goes to hot, so your presets don't get deleted and also the clock. Unless you want to do what Jack mentioned, but you have to make sure you turn the radio off. Don't the wires have little tabbies saying where each wire goes? Now I remember why I loathe Sony products. *Except my PS2* ;D ;D ;D
The yellow is usually the memory for the radio and clock.Put them both on the same one like Jack mentioned as hot all the time you just have to remember to turn the radio off. If you keep the radio on with the key you could burn the points.
The wires are red and yellow. The red says it goes to the 12V power terminal which is powered in the accessory position of the ignition switch. The yellow goes to the terminal which is powered at all times. Since I don't have an accessory position, I'm figuring with Jack and going to the same line- that would be #8- a 16 amp fuse which covers blinkers, radio, horn, etc. I have some spare piggyback pickups in the garage so it's time to turn on the heater and get to work.
(http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/wiring/66type3fuses.jpg)
QuoteI'm figuring with Jack and going to the same line- that would be #8- a 16 amp fuse which covers blinkers, radio, horn, etc. I have some spare piggyback pickups in the garage so it's time to turn on the heater and get to work.
I've got a radio in the Bradley wired up like that. You can play it without the key in but I also have a battery cut off so everytime I disconnect the battery I have to reset all the stations. It becomes a pain in the mooning . If its the same as my truck radio it already has a fuse plugged into the back no need for an extra inline fuse.
made all connections- not getting any power to it. m-d &m& m-d2
Quotemade all connections- not getting any power to it.
are you getting juice to the 2 power wires? if so check that fuse on the back of the radio. One other thing is the unit grounded? you might want to run a separate ground wire to the case and then to a good ground.
I changed the 16 amp fuse in the car and the 10amp one in the unit looks good. Still no power. Could it be a bad ground? I'm also waondering about the piggybacks. It's hard to see where they slip onto the fuse box. Maybe when my hands warm up a little I'll look at that.
Is there a way to test the stereo itself. Wish i knew how to use a VOM m-d &m& m-d2
The best way to check it is with the thing you don't know how to use. stoned# meter without that your shooting in the dark. It has to be grounded.
I was just going to ask if it could be a bad ground. I just checked my + connections and everything looks good.
Quote from: LoveBus (jack) on January 02, 2009, 07:59:12 PM
The best way to check it is with the thing you don't know how to use. stoned# meter without that your shooting in the dark. It has to be grounded.
Can anybody here walk me through it online?
John. Just hook up a piece of wire from the screw on the back of the radio (the one with the bracket you bent)to any bare metal under the hood (part of the body) to check it. If it works make a permanent one
I'll check this out again tommorrow- it's getting cold out there. Thanks Shaun. I'll try grounding it some where else.
John,
I've gone through this several times. To test a radio outside the car I've used a 12v source, my jumper box and just wired the radio up on a table with 2 speakers and an old antenna plugged in. You have to ground out the case or you won't complete the circuit. If its getting juice to the + side I'd start looking at the ground if there is one. The antenna is usually grounded but thats not enough. I've got 5 or 6 radios sitting down the basement that includes an AM Chevy one from the Corvair and a "look a like' chevy radio/tape deck that will eventually end up in the vair. I've tested every one of them this way and they won't play unless you have the case grounded. Just my 2CENTS
Was re-reading this thread.
Quote from: Bahaha on January 01, 2009, 10:25:44 PM
What color are they? Red is + ... Yellow is for the dash lights... Blue is for amps or power antenna (It goes hot when you turn the radio on)
Wow I said that with such authority! Yellow IS for dash lights...ON A CHEVY! Good greif. Sorry John. Beetle was right yellow is for the memories & hooking them up together is fine.
it might be a bad henway, check the henway
Yeah Frank what's a henway? ABOUT 4 POUNDS
!fright! shocked BO** BO**
John,
On my Alpine car radio, I had the same prob, ( years ago) but confirmed it was receiving juice by the volt meter........
THought it was a bad radio, then happened to catch in the manual to "make sure you push in the reset switch on rear of radio" - did that, and power came on........ 888
Said to do that even after disconnecting battery, removing radio..............
Not saying that this is it, but just wanted to add to the info given
Good luck
Matt
HAH! good catch Bud!
yeah Matt, I thought about that and reset it early. But the latest news is-I got it working!!
How ,you ask?
Using my volt meter! I realized I was hooked up to the wrong fuse! I had a 16 amp fuse on an 8 amp holder. Made the change, moved the piggybacks over one fuse and bingo bango- it lights up!
m-d &m& m-d2 :wallbash: screwey)) stoned#
bingo bango? swell john !
Quote from: perdecas on January 03, 2009, 09:20:53 PM
bingo bango? swell john !
What gives, I have seen more posts from Frank in the last 4 day then all year ???
Must not have enough to do at work.Lets send him stuff to work on!
He can do the Laquer on my Baja 777
Well yes i finally did get the stereo in and working. Not terribly thrilled with the look but it'll do till I get another idea on how to screw it up more.
Here is a shot of my fuse box. You can see the two piggyback pick ups I put on the fuse box for the electric hook up. What you maynot realize from this picture is that I have the wrong fuse in the wrong holder. White fuses are 8 amp, red fuses are 16. There should only be one white fuse inbetween the two reds. Not 2 like I have. This is the fuse box. Mine is upside down. You can see that the 3rd fuse from the right feeds the horn, radio and a bunch of other stuff
(http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/wiring/66type3fuses.jpg)
Mine (albiet upside down) has this fuse in the 4th position. So remmember folks- always check your manual and your fuse box. Don't let stupid happen to you!
(http://www.sjvwc.net/coppermine/albums/userpics/type3stuff_014.jpg)
After the wiring crap was done, I reinstalled the glove box. this shot is from underneath
(http://www.sjvwc.net/coppermine/albums/userpics/type3stuff_015.jpg)
and then this is the unit in the glove box
(http://www.sjvwc.net/coppermine/albums/userpics/type3stuff_016.jpg)
As I said I'm not totally thrilled and I have to clean up the area a little but it'll do for now. And heck, I can always keep the door closed.
Now I just have to figure out the speakers s#r s#r s#r
Looks real fine to me 0198 Heck, your not going to be driving around with the glove box door open & when your parked it will be closed right? You don't want to even see my wiring 888
John
Looks great!
About those speakers..
Any space under the rear seat? Is there a panel like a beetle? How about a removable speaker box in the back with just a couple of plugs ? you could yank it out for shows and put it back for crusin around. Just some thoughts. 2CENTS
Yeah, I'm probably going the speaker box route. I've gotta check around and see whats offered.
PepBoys has some good deals on them.
John,
I found that box we spoke of. Looks something like this...
(http://images.channeladvisor.com/Sell/SSProfiles/40000024/Images/8/MTXRTP212-CA-V1.jpg)
There are protective grilles on the speakers and no amp. Looks HUGE in the picture but those are only 10" speakers
So 12"x22" +-
Yours if you want it
Why don't your forget the whole thing and have me serenade you with tuba?! I might have to play laying down but that's no problem. ;D
Quote from: Bahaha on January 10, 2009, 11:18:03 PM
John,
There are protective grilles on the speakers and no amp. Looks HUGE in the picture but those are only 10" speakers
So 12"x22" +-
Yours if you want it
Shawn, will I be able to use it with the 6X9 speakers that I have or will I need round speakers like those in the picture?
Quote from: Beetleboi on January 11, 2009, 01:16:53 AM
Why don't your forget the whole thing and have me serenade you with tuba?! I might have to play laying down but that's no problem. ;D
Well my daughters have always thought of this car as a hearse!
Lol i can take a hint. ;D
It's complete with (round) speakers. They should be OK. If not and you want to use 6x9's you can make a cover plate.
Thanks buddy! Can you bring it to the next meeting?
Sure, if you want to wait that long. You going to "Breakfast with the Type 3's"?
I'm thinking about it. If it's below 30 degrees, I might show up in the "water cooled" beetle.
Quote from: 6T5 square on January 12, 2009, 09:23:49 AM
I'm thinking about it. If it's below 30 degrees, I might show up in the "water cooled" beetle.
You mean the "Water Warmed" Beetle