SJVWC Forums
Archive => Archive board => Engine Shop => Topic started by: 6T5 square on June 16, 2014, 03:53:49 pm
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(http://i719.photobucket.com/albums/ww198/6T5square/photo3_zps866c9b85.jpg)
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Why? It's not old enough for that. ""tool""
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John,
I have some nice Type III engine parts. Let me know if you need parts or help! %$oldcit
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Wha happen?
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Probably just got bored.....
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Draw your self up a cold one- it's a story.
After finally replacing the pulley fan I re-installed the engine. Fired up right away but I heard a banging noise upon start up. The noise went away immediately and the engine ran great but pulling out into the driveway, I noticed a heavy oil leak. Front seal was blown. Took the engine back out, replaced the seal but upon putting the flywheel back on I noticed that the four holes for the pins between the crankshaft and the flywheel were oval instead of the perfect round they are supposed to be. To qoute Mr. Jack Kessel, "ooohhhh!"
Broke the motor down, Have the crankshaft out, now I'm going to a machinist to have 4 new holes drilled in the crank and possibly the flywheel. Also noticed that the number 4 bering (front) is kinda fubar so it looks like I'll be replacing bearings.
Hey, while I'm in there, got any suggestions of what else I might need to do? Should I replace the rod inserts? Muir suggests the bolts also but I dont think its neccesary. Rings and pistons look good.
Any help is appreciated.
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Draw your self up a cold one- it's a story.
Hey, while I'm in there, got any suggestions of what else I might need to do? Should I replace the rod inserts? Muir suggests the bolts also but I dont think its neccesary. Rings and pistons look good.
Any help is appreciated.
Yep Replace that A.C. motor with a Subaru... (*speeder
All Kidding aside I'm right up the road so if you need a set of hands can stop by to give you a Handy thumpup)-
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Oh man, is Weezer gonna miss the invasion?😢
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yeah it's most likely. I dropped the crank off yesterday to be redrilled. Thats going to take a week. Need to order bearings and gaskets. Then put the whole thing together. I dont know if I want its maiden voyage to be a few hundred miles up to Watkins Glen.
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Get the hi-performance flywheel bolt and the extra large washer that comes with it. This washer covers enough of the flywheel pins to preventing them from backing out.
Was the flywheel bolt loose or easy to come out? Without looking it up, I think the torque is over 200 ft/lbs.
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no, it was definately torqued correctly, Joe. I think it's just showing its age. what with all that raw POWER that engine has, the torque must be astronomical!!! #@rofl3
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The high compression single port Variant "S" 1500 was the highest HP Rating of any V-Dub at the time. A raw head snapping 66 Horse Power and 84 lb ft of torque %$oldcit
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Get the hi-performance flywheel bolt and the extra large washer that comes with it. This washer covers enough of the flywheel pins to preventing them from backing out.
Was the flywheel bolt loose or easy to come out? Without looking it up, I think the torque is over 200 ft/lbs.
I agree with Joe, the HD gland nut and washer is much better. 2@cent Torqued to 217 lb ft according to the VW Without Guesswork Book 1960 through 1970 %$oldcit
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The big question is whether or not to align bore. I did an original rebuild in 1994. All new bearings, rod inserts, rings etc. Just your basic rebuild. everything back to original specs. The car was running great when I started taking things apart for the fan replacement. But since I have the block apart, should I have the crank done and the case align bored? BTW- moneys tight as a frogs a**.
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I'd weigh my options as far as final costs. the new Brazil castings (Universal case) look really good. You can get them with the 8 mm studs. the area is filled in behind #3 cylinder, tapped for full oil flow, ect.. 2@cent
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thanks Joe but you know how cheap I am. I have another spare type3 case in the garage if this one is shot but it has sentimental value being it was the original. =+grouphu9
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I understand, if you can keep the original case then by all means try and save it. I know it's a tetanus job to accurately check all the dimensions. Then you have to trust a machine shop who may or may not have the right guy doing the work.
My last encounter with a shop was a disaster, It was recommended for good quality hi-performance work. the over-sized valves seats had only the initial grind, the seats had deep ridges It's a good thing I took it apart to hand-lap the valves or I would have never caught it. They never gave it the final finish. They did it right the second time.
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thats what I'm afraid of Joe- them screwing up a case that they dont see very often.