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[matt]

Tomorrow will be looking to buy a month and year correct engine for Bob (7/55 bug). It is shortblock with pistons/cylinders still attached. I understand the engine has been stored for many years and does not turn over from sitting so long .
Was wondering if anyone had any suggestions what to look for in a block like this which would make it a no go, besides a crack in the block. Eventually would like to build it back up into a working engine, but that is far down on my list - but want to have it anyway as  I have been looking for years for correct month/year engine, and these are usually snapped up.

On a side note, Years ago, I did obtain an industrial engine 36hp block which is blank for numbers. Some people have said to just punch some numbers in to make it correct, but not sure about this... even if I wanted to, not sure would be able to get the right punch sizes/font.  I understand dealer rebuild blocks were number blanked, and usually the dealers would punch numbers in for a reubuild, with some additional numbers on the side of the pedestal area to show it was a rebuild - or for their books - whatever.

Comments?

[6T5 square]

I'll let the engine experts answer this one, but my theory is, if it's cheap enough, buy it. As you said they are getting hard to find so basically your buying a lottery ticket. I snatched up an old type 3 block just for this reason.

[Daverted]

I'm not an engine expert either, but I would ck the case really well, everything else you gonna work on.

[matt]

thanks for the quick reply guys!

[lovebus (jack)]

Check for excessive end play and damage to the case, thats about all you can check without taking it apart

[Bob(Herbie)]

What Jack said. Also check the bottom of the block. I picked up a 36 horse a few years ago. When I lifted the engine, the bottom of the block stayed on the floor. Apparently the engine got water in it at some time during storage. The water dissolved the aluminum/magnesium as it sat in the bottom for years? Try to determine from the owner if it turned over when it was first stored. If so, the rings are most likely rusted to the cylinders. If that is the case, remove the spark plugs and spray PB Blaster in  the head combustion Chambers and wait. Then try to turn it over occasionally.  Patience Grass Hopper

[matt]

thanks to you both!

  What do you mean by excessive, couple thousands of an inch,,,? I did not bring anything that could measure that
Can the endplay be checked with pistons and cylinders attached? didn't think you could...
will do Bob-

thanks again -

[Bob(Herbie)]

Matt,
Yes you can check end play with the long block completely assembled. Excessive end play would be a clunk clunk you could see and hear when the flywheel is bolted on. The correct end play should be about .006 inch.

[matt]

ok, thanks bob, greatly appreciated!

[matt]

Well, drove the  4+ hr to get to the guy's place, and saw the engine,.... saw that the numbers were not what he said they were!

WTH?!!!!!!   I won't go into the details, but I think he is kinda wacked a bit.  He did show Ted and I his "collection" in his shed.
Quite a bit of split stuff, and some oval stuff, and later.  His prices were high, not that I was going to buy anything. He said he has been collecting VW parts for about 50 years.  Said he was frustrated with a friend of his for not selling him any of his stuff, which amounts to a 3 story barn, crammed full of split and oval pieces - said it was crammed from floor to ceiling. His friend who was 65, said he was waiting for retirement....
It was pretty much a waste....of my precious time and $$   even tho he advertises on thesamba, I would not trust that guy.

[rich67vw]

And the stuff rusts away... a shame

[Bob(Herbie)]

Matt, I will check my 36 block numbers for a 7/55