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[3Gear]

So I am about ready to set this  -55] -55] car on fire and dump it in the ocean
 m-d &m& m-d2 m-d &m& m-d2 
I installed the new dizzy, and lined it up just like the old one, dumped a touch of gas down the old carb and vroom, it sprang to life, and acted exactly like it did before  m-d &m& m-d2 c23 c23

 I will run at 2500 or so rpm but wont idle and will not start with out some fuel added to the carb. I had it running for a solid 5+ minutes at about 2000 but would die any lower, every time I messed with the adjustments on the carb it just seemed to get worse. I know the carb is getting fuel otherwise it would not have stayed running, but I do not know what to do to get this running :wallbash: S@Sm  anyone want to buy a non op baja... Yes I am kidding, but getting close to that point, not just because of the carb, I found a new just as annoying problem. which I will post in the correct section. 

So I am giving up on this F&%#ing carb, my bug will be sitting for the next week or two till I can buy a new carb!! and if I didn't owe someone a carb already, I would beat the living s$%t out of this one with a f&%*ing sledge hammer!!!!


Marc
Who is not loving his vdub these days...

[lovebus (jack)]

Well Mark, From the start it had to be fuel. The distributor was  the one thing that really needed replacing. I know you could get it started, and I didn't say that the dist. would fix it, but you have to have a set path of troubleshooting and not just jump all over the place with guys saying it could be this, it could be that or it could be your horn button. You have check it out in a Logical fashon. You can't work with a dist that only has the retard working, You will NEVER have the right timing when it is running.

Now first thing, did the carb fill with fuel while it was running like I asked you to check? That is the very first thing you have to check.

I'll be more then happy to come up tomorrow and help you.

If your carb was working before it should still work!!

[njgt-1]

hate to say it but Idle circuit?
Did you check the idle jet on the side of the carb ? Wants to die below 2500 and won't keep running just sounds like the idle circuit isn't coming on.

Pretty sure its not the horn button..

 2CENTS

[matt]

Marc,

I can send you another carb ( inusred ) if you want to try it.  See if you can get it running using my carb.

But your carb should work - they are very  robust!

I still would definetly check for gas in the bowl, as Jack said despite it running. take the top of the carb off while it is still on the manifold.

That again is the first step.




Are you getting voltage to the bypass air (mixture) cutoff valve?  Do you hear the click in the carb when you turn your key to the on position? Listen closley.

 


Hate to ask this Bob, but what is the idle circuit? were you refering to the pilot jet?

Maybe you are refering to the idle speed being controlled by air bypass around the throttle? this was incorporated into the 30-pict-3 (1970) carbs, and I think this was continued in the later ones...


TM

[njgt-1]

Matt,

Hate to ask this Bob, but what is the idle circuit? were you refering to the pilot jet?

the idle jet or "pilot jet" is the brass hex headed thing on the right side of most solex carbs. Usually they are stamped with a .50 or .55 and one small piece of crud will cause problems in the idling characteristics of the carb. That circuit also comes into play from idle to around 2500 or so RPM. Since Marcs car won't idle ( and the cut off valve is working ) I'd check the pilot ( or idle ) jet and the associated progression circuit.

had something like this on one of my kadrons a couple of years ago

 2CENTS <-as always   

[Beetleboi -Greg-]

Hey guys, I think the o ring on my dizzy is way to big. I put all my might into getting it in. It goes right into the hole with the o ring off. Same as the old dizzy, I tried to pry the o ring off the old one but it broke =-(

Any suggestions? I got the o ring and dizzy from aircooled.net so I figured that it would be the right size.

I put the dizzy cap back on and put my weight on it, and tried wiggling it back and forth. I couldn't get it in.
 :'( :'( :'( :'(

[matt]

They can be a little tough


  I bet the CLAMP that holds the distrib in place is what is catching the seal.

Take off the clamp, slide it over the distrib while in hand see how that goes

then try to get it in to the hole.
if successful, then bolt down the clamp

   May need to grease up the seal a little


Matt

[matt]

Once you get it into the hole, make sure the cogs are aligned properly tot he recess in the drive, as they are offset.
  after eyeball aligning , WHile pushing down with moderate or less pressure turn the rotor a bit and you feel it move down whenthings finally align

M