Z-Max

[kiko]

Oil with the zinc add. is whats rec for my beemer so I always buy there brand.  Wish I could find it somewhere else does the API tell if it has zinc or how can you tell?

[TRAVELER]

The Brad Penn has a very high zinc content cant use it with cat equipped cars will cause a meltdown. I have a friend who lives out that way that sells it he ships it all over the place. drive&& sjvwc.ico Here is a little trivia info Kendal is actually the name of the creek that flows along the refinery up there! the names were sold ( kendal & Amalie) now headquartered down south around the gulf its nothing like it was.The refinery however is still making good stuff with the good stuff under various names.  http://www.amref.com/ check out the history part of the sight very interesting. P#3 $61$ grnbug

[Bugaru "JAY"]

Wow, very imformitive info. I know that the ole Timers use to swear on PennsOil it was good stuff and I always used it when I could afford to buy the better stuff.

[VWPANZER1]

   OK I’m not going to say this again. Every independent lab that has tested additives has shown that- not one will increase HP, mileage and engine longevity.

   Every oil manufacturer has emphasized not to add anything to their oil.
And here is the kicker. If new car manufacturers could squeeze another ½ mile per gallon on that sticker they put on the window. You know they would be using and recommending it.

    You want to make a pile of money? Produce an auto additive, give it a fancy name and make outrageous claims.

  Oh yeah, STP, the worse offender. It’s only good for putting on your bearings for a rebuild. Although STP is suppose to be a secret process. I believe it to be nothing more that Hydrogenated petroleum oil, like Crisco and margarine. High heat, add a nickel catalyst and bingo- Cross-linked hydrocarbons.

   The only oil that time and time aging has shown superiority in the fields of resistance to breakdown from extreme heat is Synthetic oil. -Think turbo’s. But for VW (and Harley’s) it just loves to weep out of every crevice.

  A couple of years ago I read that Castrol was the one brand that resisted viscosity break down at higher temperatures better than any brand except synthetics, this was substantiated by two different independent test labs. The reports appeared (years apart) in both a motorcycle and one of the consumer magazines.

  And about the oil manufactures cutting back on putting less zinc in motor oil â€"That’s true and that’s not very good us VW guys with flat head lifters. But there are two things you can do to. One is to use 10-40 and not 10-30. 10-40 has more zinc. Also using oil for diesels. That has all the additives and it has good slug of zinc in it. If I can find the article I’ll bring it to the meeting.

Jct  :icon_study:

[66-Ghia]

I have to agree with you Joe, I GOOGLED  Z-Max, STP and others your findings, are true according to what I have read.
Good job Joe  :icon_cheers:

[steveo]

MOBIL 1 for my speed demon :icon_sunny:
steveo

[Bugaru "JAY"]

 I use synthetics. I want to be sure that my Turbo gets lubed really good. 

[lovebus (jack)]

 

1-  Oh yeah, STP, the worse offender. It’s only good for putting on your bearings for a rebuild.
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2-   The only oil that time and time aging has shown superiority in the fields of resistance to breakdown from extreme heat is Synthetic oil.
Jct  :icon_study:

ON your #-1 statement, why is it good for that if its not good to run in your car. question?sign Isn’t that a contradiction of facts

I agree with your second statement.

[VWPANZER1]

 

   I feel like I’m preaching to the choir. Ok -Never, ever, never put a crank or rod bearing on dry. If you use just motor oil there is a chance that by the time you fire your rebuilt engine up the motor oil may have been squeezed or run off. Any thicker compound such as the red break-in compound made especially for bearing or even a light coating of grease, Vaseline or KY jelly â€"No smart remarks! Will hopefully lube that bearing until the oil pump catches up providing the necessary oil pressure to prevent metal to metal contact. Of course the best thing is if you can rotate the oil pump manually or pressurize the oil system before hand.

   Here is an exert from Mr. Moto. http://mototuneusa.com/circular_logic.htm

Plain Bearings Are Easily Damaged ...
... not from a hard break-in, but rather from incorrect installation, debris, oil dilution from fuel*, insufficient oil clearance, oil contamination from blow-by acids*, oil starvation, damaged (rough) crank journal or bearing surfaces, severely overheated oil and abnormal bearing or journal out-of-roundness which causes frictional wear on the high spots.

   By the way don’t be discourage that this web site is for Superbikes, it has some revolutionary idea’s that are applicable to all engines. Make sure you read all the way down and you will have more information than you ever thought you needed on plain bearings. I like the idea of wiping the gray surface coating off of mail bearings with a paper towel.

love  (love
jct

[lovebus (jack)]

To much to read, what specific part of that site said something you want me to read? Is it the part about wiping the bearings.
I use to use steel wool in the 60's to for less friction in our race engines. Tell me whats the revolutionary idea's? I don't want to read the whole site.

Some people read to much and have no real life expearance to know what really works.

It's called Book smart.

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