POR15

[6T5 square]

Anybody know any local places (auto parts stores) that sell the stuff? I know I've seen it somewhere.

[njgt-1]

John

Try Gambredellas speed shop in Williamstown ( don't know if thats how you spell it )
I understand he has it over the counter. The best part about buying it from a local place is that Por-15 has an agreement with anybody who resells it they must sell it at the same price that Por sells it for. You save the shipping by buying local.

[steveo]

John,
That speed shop in Williamstown has it...the Bob said. It's on the BHP south of Peter's Diner.
Also, from what I understand POR-15 doesn't like brake fluid. As per your previous post on Por-ing the area by your master cylinder.
Steveo

[scarecrow]

Don't care for POR15 myself. Very Toxic & expensive. I use 1 Step Rust Killer. Non toxic & has the consistancy on milk. A gallon goes a long long way. Here a link if anyone is interested

http://www.interstateproducts.com/1_step_rust_killer_pricing.htm

[jthw8]

I prefer rustbullet myself.  Ive used them both side by side on projects and the rustbullet is easier to use and was developed for use in industrial ships so it works.

POR works too but its more critical about the prep and just takes longer.

[matt]

I tired POR, thought it was very good, but like rust bullet as you can paint right over it. POR dries so slick you have to ruff it up or prep it another way.this = time. You can paint right over rustbullet.

Will check out the above link though.


What is very interesting is someone on thesamba did a comparison test, between por, rust, eastwood, master series, jasco .......... and rustoleum. let plates of metal treated with each sit outside for a loooooong time. Seemed like the rustoleum did just as well as por & others.  He was seemingly getting a little tired of waiting for things to happen, so he put each treatment into his swimming pool ( exposure to chlorine and chemicals for a looooong time), torched them, hammered them....and from there I think the experiment was wasted, which is a  shame after all that time

I dont drive my car into swimming pools for starters....well, not usually  & when I do I get em right out!   he should have poured salt solution over them if anything, etc to mimic salt road conditions.  I did post about my pool comment as well did someone else.

after 3 years every material tested bubbled up off the metal....duh rustoleum was the first to bubble  888 so one learns not to paint the inside of the pool with rustoleum or the others :surrender:

 It seems as if what matters is what one expects, which is the prep work.  Good prep work, and good application...anything that will isolate the metal from the air will work.

Guess it may be a diff situation if the part is in frequent contact with water?

I think about some of the 50 yr old cars I see that still have their original paint with no or little rust.....




Matt

[matt]

Here it is.........


                rust preventative comparisons


Matt

[Baha (Shawn)]

It's not the water... It's what's in the water.

Summertime is just as bad as winter. Getting caught in the beginning of a rain washes everything on the road up into the nooks and crannies of your car. Just think about whats in that water...every fluid used in cars & trucks PLUS every caustic mess that has dripped of of trucks carrying it since the last rain. Salt is a piece of cake compared to that.

Plus the entire chassis is carrying current so electrolysis is a major contributor.

Another thing I love about Bajas... Most of the nooks and crannies are left on the cutting room floor gifsawsall