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[Bugaru "JAY"]

Shocks….?

 Not sure about the rest of you guys, but every VDub has a different ride, and each owner sometimes prefers a different style of handling.

 I am one of those that change my shocks more then I’d like to admit. Guess you can tell that by the pics. But then again owning several VDubs you need lots of them on hand.

I recently stumbled on this unique shock. It’s kind of old school, and maybe what VW originally sold with their cars. Or at lease Jack may suggest? But normally when you buy a VW shock it looks like any other shock, that is except for supper Beetle Stuts, but we’ll talking standard VW shocks not struts. So you simply remove one shock and install two bolts and your done.

 There are two pictures below the one with all the shocks are what you normally would find as an upgraded VW shock. But if you checkout the 2nd pic your notice something uniquely different about this cofab/Borg shock. The difference is that it has an install kit. The neat thing is that the shock has the normal 3 1\2” of travel plus a snubber style bumper system that will give approximately another inch to slowly stop the car from bottoming out. And it actually works….   shocked

 Again these are all VW upgrade shocks, and not your normal cheap-O-shocks  I1t
 

 CoFab System Shock

[bugs2much]

Thanks for the info Jay. Do your last two avatars have something in common?  :icon_wink: :icon_cheesygrin:

[6T5 square]

Do they work for lowered cars and if you don't mind me asking- how much? Are the backs and the fronts the same style (with the bump stop?) Where can you get them?

[braidmeister]

Great thread/subject. How do you like the Gas-A-Just KYBs? Do they have knobs on them for adjustment? I had a set of Tokico Illumina 5-way adjustable on my Mustang and it completely transformed the car (with Eibach performance springs and 4° of caster)

I like a medium to firm ride so that I can throw the car into the twisties. What would you guys suggest?

-Brady

[6T5 square]

I'd suggest not beating on your car so much  :icon_eek:

[lovebus (jack)]

The bottom pix is the original setup on the bug from about 67 up to SB w/struts

[njgt-1]

Jay,

good topic.
I've got stock struts on the super with gas/oil KYBs on the back. I'm also running a Top line urethane bushing kit with 3 degree + sway bar castor bushings.Good ride, a bit firm but it holds up to bumps real well and with the added castor it tracks very straight.

I tried KYBs all around on the Bradley GT ( 70 IRS pan / std beam with KG disks ) the car rode firm but actually sat too low. I switched to coil over adjustable gas shocks on all four corners with the front set at the lightest setting and the rear set to three notches. This raised the car about 2", and gave a very firm ride with almost no rebound after hitting a bump. I found this to be the best all around combination on this one since the car does handle tighter and takes bumps very well.

 2CENTS

[lovebus (jack)]

STOCK SETUP SHOCKS

[Bugaru "JAY"]

The bottom pix is the original setup on the bug from about 67 up to SB w/struts

Jack.. Your just too damn good..  s3

Jay,

good topic.
I've got stock struts on the super with gas/oil KYBs on the back. I'm also running a Top line urethane bushing kit with 3 degree + sway bar castor bushings.Good ride, a bit firm but it holds up to bumps real well and with the added castor it tracks very straight.
 2CENTS

Bob I agree, I  found that for a decent ride on most Standard Bugs, KYB gas shocks in the rear, and stock non-gas shocks in the front. 
 :surrender:

[braidmeister]

I'd suggest not beating on your car so much  :icon_eek:

Spirited driving is not beating on MY car drive&&

Bob I agree, I  found that for a decent ride on most Standard Bugs, KYB gas shocks in the rear, and stock non-gas shocks in the front. 

So are these KYBs on the rear the adjustable ones? Do you have to remove them like a Koni Red shock to adjust them...or do they have a knob?

-Brady

[Beetleboi -Greg-]

I ordered a set of KYB G2's. I'll let ya'll know how I feel after I put them on. Trying cancel out the feeling of the back end of the car raising up when I take a sharp turn at 75.  >:(

[njgt-1]

So are these KYBs on the rear the adjustable ones? Do you have to remove them like a Koni Red shock to adjust them...or do they have a knob?

non adjustable, don't need to they ride good with no bounce.

when I take a sharp turn at 75.

Forget the shocks, get a "roll bar" !

[Bugaru "JAY"]

VW’s are not exactly what you would consider a road course car. In basic language the large cupped fenders etc tends to trap the air and will cause lift during higher speeds. Also due to aerodonetics if you were going fast in a bug and took your foot off of the gas the car’s natural response is for the a** end to lift upwards. This is even more prononced if running coilovers.

If the rear of your car’s lifting, it could be caused by several factors.
1.   Torsion Spring Ride height set to firm or high?
2.   Rear Shocks have to much lift? Coilovers?
3.   Front to Back Rake?

KYB’s GR’2 Shocks are a good choice. They are Nitrogen Charged, and offer a decent ride. For front Shocks the best ride I found was just the simple non-gas charged shocks, the cheap-o ones work well. I found that these style shocks permit the car’s torsion springs to do the work, while the shocks simply stabilizes the bounce. Again the purpose of most shocks are to stop the car from spring bounce. If you have no suspension springs etc, then you would need more lift from a shock something in the line of a coilover etc. A good way to simply test your suspension is to remove your front shocks. Push downwards on the front a few times and your quickly see that the car gulides up and down. The shocks simply takes the bounce out for a smoother up and down motion. VW did a great job with this invention. 

There are several ways to stop the a** end of your VW from lifting at higher speeds. On a drag car they use limiting straps. What they are is a strap that kind of looks like a seat belt you buy it to the length that your car is set to ride. What it does it limit the height that the car can rise, but still permits the car travel downwards when you hit a bump. Some guys will simply use a chunk of chain, “Limiting Straps are mandatory for a race car to pass Tech” I have a set on the Flamed car, next time you see me remind me and I’ll point them out to you. 

[lovebus (jack)]

Thats correvct Jay. I used chains on the front of the racecar with just enough slack for front body lift to give proper weight transfer to the rear wheels. This would carry the front wheels off the ground in first gear and part way through second gear.Not needed on stock cars Greg so don't run out and chain your car down..  :D

[braidmeister]

...so don't run out and chain your car down..  :D

Yeah Greg, your car is gonna be off the chain!  LoL LoL LoL

We all know these cars aren't 911s (they wanted $80/spark plug on my '73 911!!)...but they are light weight and can be made to handle. I'm aiming for a Pro Touring/semi-German look for my car. I'd like to get a set of 17" Boxter or 911 'Twisties' for my car eventually...and tighten up the suspension. I'd be interested in taking a ride or checking out some of the members cars who have upgraded the suspension & take some notes for my Standard Beetle.

Bugaru - thanks for the info so far. That makes sense with the front end of these cars being so light...It's not so fun understeering or bump steering  :rolleyes: if the front suspension is too twitchy.