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[3Gear]

Has anyone in the club converted from a generator to an altenator? I am looking for someone who has actually done this...

If you have, do you remember the wiring changes required? Does this diagram look correct to you??


 I am not worried about the mechanical conversion, just the electrical changes going from the external regulator, to the internal one in the altenator.




Thank you,
Marc  stoned#

[6T5 square]

Yeah it looks right. My battery has a direct lead to the top of the alternator. the old regulator was removed and lines were spliced. i have 3 leads out of the back of the alternator- a thick red line (ignition) and a green line (idiot light) from the main wiring harness. The third is a lead that goes to the coil.

But then again I have a type 3!

[lovebus (jack)]

It looks right & T3 would be the same.

[6T5 square]

I just like mentioning it because I know your all jealous! :icon_tongue: :icon_tongue: :icon_tongue: :icon_tongue: :icon_tongue: BO** BO** BO**

[lovebus (jack)]

I just like mentioning it because I know your all jealous! :icon_tongue: :icon_tongue: :icon_tongue: :icon_tongue: :icon_tongue: BO** BO** BO**

Deep down we all know T-3's Rule.

[vwtrike (Rich)]

I have two wires on my altenator. The large one goes to my battery, and the push on wire goes to my idiot light.

[bugs2much]

You might have to use a different fuel pump with the alternator. May be a clearance problem with the stock pump.

[vwtrike (Rich)]

I had no problem with the fuel pump. I did have to change the generater bracket to one for an altenator. As far as I know you can use an altenator bracket for a generater, but you can't use a generater bracket for an altenator.

[njgt-1]

Alternator fuel pump looks like its leaning to one side. Thats so it clears the alternator.

[hockeydoc33]

I did the swap on my '40 Ford Kit......... Easy.  The wiring diagram you posted is correct.

The only concern I had was properly splicing the heavy leads from the Alternator/Battery/Light Switch.  I wanted to use a terminal block so the leads could be disconnected if needed.

After some thought and searching my shop for suitable materials I came up with this solution:



As you can see, the result is terminal block with a 1/4-20 brass post that allows the three red leads to be connected using standard ring wire connectors.  This assembly is located under the rear seat where the regulator once lived.

Since the assembly needed to be fairly heavy and insulated from the body, I searched my garage and found the perfect solution...... a HOCKEY PUCK.

I found the brass bolt, nuts and washers in my plumbing materials.  It is a toilet retaing bolt.

I cut, drilled and counter bored the puck to form the terminal block and mounted it in place with threaded inserts and brass screws.

I have a CAD drawing of the terminal block that shows a cross section of the assembly.  I'll bring copies to the 1/5 meeting for anyone who is interested. 

[Bugaru "JAY"]

Hey, I like that idea cool I'll need to keep that one in mind. I think the only thing that I would have added would be a cover to protect the Hot terminal. Maybe a small chunk of an old bicyle tire or something to protect the hot side. I'm just a stickler on trying to keep the + wires covered. I'm also a fumble fingers and wouldn't want to drop a wrench etc and cause a melt down.

 Great Idea, on the Hockey Puck, next time I see my neighbors kids playing hockey infront of my house I need to remember to borrow one of their pucks. ..  s#r

 

[lovebus (jack)]

I'll bring copies to the 1/5 meeting for anyone who is interested. 

Thats great, by all means bring it.