Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[6T5 square]

Since I'm sitting around waiting for parts to come in, I might as well put in weezer's stereo.  I like the look of the type 3 dash and dont want to mess it up by cutting an awful looking, point of no return hole in my irreplaceable dash board (no, you can't get these anywhere) so I've decided to go stealth by putting it in the glove box. The problem is mounting the radio into the box with out using the hammer

The glove box comes out pretty easy. You type one guys may be different but with mine, there is a strap that goes around the back of the box that comes off with one phillips screww and then unscrew the 2 screws that hold in the catch plate for the door release. Then just work the box out under the dash and it comes right out. I know you type one guys have access to the glove box through the front trunk area but on type threes they don't. Solid wall. So I'm laying on my back alot. After taking out the box, I removed the stereo from the package and found two flat mounting brackets, some screws and some wires. Oh yeah, Bob- I found out it does have a remote! I screwed the brackets into the sides of the radio and bent them outwards, this way I can try and figure out some kind of mounting bracket

I found that when I bent the brackets outward they were wider then the box, so I cut two slits in the side of the box so I could have the brackets sticking out of the sides of the glove box, giving me something to secure them to

I then looked at the back of the radio to look at the wire hook ups

Notice how the wire hook ups are on the outside and the middle is empty with only a mounting screw hole to worry about. I carefully measured them, marked it onto a piece of masking tape and placed it acrosss the front of the stereo. I then placed the stereo into the glovebox and secured it into the position I wanted it mounted into.

This enabled me to properly measure on top of the glove box and then transfer those measurements to the back of the glove box

I then took a handy dandy dremel tool and cut the appropriate holes in the back of the box.

At this point last night, I was getting tired and decided to stop. Part two is coming up soon!

[scarecrow]

Nice :icon_thumleft: Here's a link for a company that makes a one piece stereo speaker that may fit you stock speaker location

http://www.vintagecarradio.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=2&products_id=9&osCsid=rvpihdc2t8ctp2shmm5ir50235

[bugs2much]

Nice lay out job John, looks like you can still use the original mounting strap. :icon_wink:

[njgt-1]

Good job!

looks almost like the Sony in my truck. The remote is real handy since you don't have to take your eyes off the road to change stations. The truck was easier I just bought an adapter plate and a special set of plugs that wired to the stereo and plugged into the trucks original speakers and power source and vola! one installed stereo. Your install in the glove box will be a clean one and the remote is going to come in handy. Keep posting photos, it would help out a lot of us type 1 guys who are considering the same thing.

[6T5 square]

Soooo
If you all remmember in the last episode I cut the back of the glove box so I may have access to the wire plugs. Also, as you can see from this next shot, on the back of the stereo there is a mounting screw hole. I bent a small piece of aluminum around a small nail punch and drilled a hole in the end of it. I then screwed the the aluminum piece to the back of the unit and then threaded a cable tie through it.

This cable tie will then go around the center piece of the back of the glove box, thus preventing it from sliding in and out of the glove box
Next step was to work on the face plate. I took a piece of cardboard and after trimming it with scissors for about 20 minutes, got it to fit into the box where I needed it. I didn't cut out the area for the stereo just yet. If I did, the cardboard would bend or tear easily.

So I used the full plate to cut out a piece of rigid board. Only thing I had around was some old peg board material. I didn't want to use plywood because it's too thick. You would have to taper in the sides in order for it to sit in the box evenly.
After cutting the basic shape of the plate, I then continued with the scissors cutting the template and then transfered the outline of the stereo onto the peg board. After the cutting was done, I just needed to keep trimming and fitting until the face plate fit in the way I wanted it to.

When I was happy with the face plate fit, it came time to finish it. Luckily the last time I did upholestry work on weezer, I save all my scrap vinyl. I had a nice piece that was large enough so I laid the vinyl down on a clean board, placed the face plate down on the fabric and traced it

Got out my handy dandy scissors and cut around the fabric.

Now I have glued the fabric onto the face plate but I need to stop here so I can catch up on my photos.
Tommorrow I'll finish this up and post my finished photos.

[matt]

 Very good John, be cool to see it finished!


Matt

[6T5 square]

Hey all.
Well i got the glove box installed and I'm soldering all my connections now but I have a general question for all. What is the best way to tap into a hot lead on the fuse box? I thought of putting a piggy back male lead on the back of the box but then I started wondering if anybody has tried anything different or cool.
Thanks for the input.

PS- more pics to come

[dawelder]

Piggyback it. You probably have to hook up two hot leads though. One works with key switch for power and one is hot all the time for the clock/memory function. If you put power to both leads all the time you will have to remeber to turn the radio off every time.

[6T5 square]

there are two hot leads out of the stereo. Should they go to the same fuse or should I keep them seperate on two fuses?

[lovebus (jack)]

keep them together to an always hot on the fuse box then you can play the radio with the key off.

[Baha (Shawn)]

What color are they? Red is + ... Yellow is for the dash lights... Blue is for amps or power antenna (It goes hot when you turn the radio on)

[Beetleboi -Greg-]

John one goes to the ignition the other goes to hot, so your presets don't get deleted and also the clock. Unless you want to do what Jack mentioned, but you have to make sure you turn the radio off. Don't the wires have little tabbies saying where each wire goes? Now I remember why I loathe Sony products. *Except my PS2*  ;D ;D ;D

[dawelder]

The yellow is usually the memory for the radio and clock.Put them both on the same one like Jack mentioned as hot all the time you just have to remember to turn the radio off. If you keep the radio on with the key you could burn the points.

[6T5 square]

The wires are red and yellow. The red says it goes to the 12V power terminal which is powered in the accessory position of the ignition switch. The yellow goes to the terminal which is powered at all times. Since I don't have an accessory position, I'm figuring with Jack and going to the same line- that would be #8- a 16 amp fuse which covers blinkers, radio, horn, etc. I have some spare piggyback pickups in the garage so it's time to turn on the heater and get to work.

[njgt-1]

I'm figuring with Jack and going to the same line- that would be #8- a 16 amp fuse which covers blinkers, radio, horn, etc. I have some spare piggyback pickups in the garage so it's time to turn on the heater and get to work.

I've got a radio in the Bradley wired up like that. You can play it without the key in but I also have a battery cut off so everytime I disconnect the battery I have to reset all the stations. It becomes a pain in the  mooning . If its the same as my truck radio it already has a fuse plugged into the back no need for an extra inline fuse.