Coil Oil- Schmoil Oil...It's still hosed

Baha (Shawn) · February 14, 2009, 09:02:49 PM

Installed the new coil today. Checked each of the plugs carefully. Replaced the #3 plug.(The one with the melted, off center electrode and blue tint like it had been heated with a blowtorch) and the car still ran (rough) at 2000 RPM without electricity. If you're new see original post. Pulled the valve cover to make sure there were no broken parts. Drained the grey oil/water mixture out of the head. Tomorrow I will construct an isolated electrical system usiong a seperate battery & see what happens.

Anybody got a dual port long block for sale?

njgt-1 · February 14, 2009, 09:21:14 PM

Quote(The one with the melted, off center electrode and blue tint like it had been heated with a blowtorch)

Dude,

told ya to watch them 92s
can you run a compression check ? I'd be worrying about the health of the cylinder with the melted plug.

Baha (Shawn) · February 14, 2009, 10:19:05 PM

That is the plug Rick didn't replace. So I dont know if it's an old or new injury. Compression isn't the problem. This HAS to be electrical. However This motor is a hodgepodge of problems and I knew that so... it's time to build a new one. Just gotta find a donor

njgt-1 · February 14, 2009, 11:30:19 PM

QuoteCompression isn't the problem. This HAS to be electrical.

Electrical won't melt a plug but too high a compression ratio, a lean fuel setting, out of wack timing will. Even an air leak will cause a lean out condition. You might be able to save it if you know why the plug fried. A set of 90.5 P&Cs plus some cylinder shims to lower compression if it hasn't been done might make a big difference and won't cost a fortune.

dawelder · February 15, 2009, 05:43:50 AM

Check gap at pertronix in distributor..

Baha (Shawn) · February 15, 2009, 10:28:47 AM

OK settle down kiddies. I'm not talking of putting in a new motor because the old one is running wrong. It's because the current motor is a conglomeration of unknown parts, wrong parts (ie aluminum pushrods with dual valve springs) mysteries (ie why couldn't Rick install the SKAT rockers. He couldn't figure them out because something aint right) It's typical volkswerck garbage. That being said Bob, I am not kicking it to the curb and waisting money. I want to put a fresh, reliable power plant (that I know what's in it) in the car and rebuild the 1835 for another project.
It's the very reason I still have aluminum push rods in it (You were screaming at me to get rid of them in October!). I'm not going to have you cut a set of $75 pushrods for me to put into this motor because the rockers need to be replaced and when I do that they'll need a different length. I can't put the rockers in now cause the tops of the valves are so buggered up from the current rockers that they'll ruin the new ones. I value your input Bob...don't ever stop. I just wanted you to see where I'm coming from (love

So if it seems like I'm ignoring some very serious signs...I am, but only because I am SURE that they are not the cause of the current problem and that's what I need to fix right now. The reason that you are alarmed is because of my sensationalizing (as usual...sorry) my story by putting in more observations of what a POS my motor is. We'll all get to see the insides of this thing when we do the "Blue Meanie Engine Rebuild" video series!

Now back to our regularly scheduled program...

Quote from: dawelder on February 15, 2009, 05:43:50 AM
Check gap at pertronix in distributor..

I have to admit I made a mistake on this Pertronix thing... I had Rick install it, and as a result I don't know jack about it OR how it works. I should have done it myself and I would have a better grasp. So I guess I'll read the installation manual so I can follow Pat's advice to check the gap.

Stay Tuned... I'm going out to bypass the electrical system

njgt-1 · February 15, 2009, 10:52:08 AM

QuoteCheck gap at pertronix in distributor..

HUH?? I've done a couple of them and never had to set a gap. The module just dropped in and the magnetic ring slides down over the cam, job done.

QuoteIt's because the current motor is a conglomeration of unknown parts, wrong parts (ie aluminum pushrods with dual valve springs) mysteries (ie why couldn't Rick install the SKAT rockers. He couldn't figure them out because something aint right) It's typical volkswerck garbage. That being said Bob, I am not kicking it to the curb and waisting money.

You might have come in in the middle of the rebuild of Mikes engine last winter. We had the same crap from the same builder. His engine had buggered valves, heavy springs with aluminum push rods and way more crap like a cam gear that decided to come apart and a cam that started to shed metal filings through out the engine. Mikes only saving grace was that the engine was a 1776 and the 90.5s were savable.
I understand where you are coming from but all the crap can be replaced with the right stuff ( IE: new valves, bearings cam etc. ) Also I'd rethink that 1835 since 92s just don't last long and have their own set of problems.

About getting another engine, hope you're not thinking of buying one from some of the advertisers in the back pages of the magazines..see the thread Grag started about that topic.

Its your cash but think it through not everything in that engine might be shot, assess what you have and plan ahead you might be surprised... 2CENTS

dawelder · February 15, 2009, 11:08:57 AM

Quote from: njgt-1 on February 15, 2009, 10:52:08 AM
HUH?? I've done a couple of them and never had to set a gap. The module just dropped in and the magnetic ring slides down over the cam, job done.

There is the pickup that screws down to the distributor. It comes with a plastic feeler gauge to set the gap between the magnet and pickup :o

Baha (Shawn) · February 15, 2009, 11:14:39 AM

There is a gap...It comes with some kind of tool for it.

Yeah I know about Mike's. That's how you informed me to be leary of mine.

Current plan.
1) Buy a dual port longblock. Oreder a S-load of stuff and do a complete build to 1776.
2) Install it in the Meanie.
3) Tear down the 1835 and spec everything out. Purchase ONLY what I need to put it back together
4) Decide at that time whether to put it back in the baja or another car.

BTW this disdain for the 1835cc VW is bothersome. Yes OVER TIME the bases of the cylinders CAN square out towards the cylinder studs. But on a street car were talking 35-50,000 miles. On a drag car...well that's different. 50k on a weekend car is 20 years. Most of us will rebuild the motor out of boredome at least twice in that time span.

Stop hating the 1835! It's a kick-a** motor and will last forever in a seldom-used toy. Recommend against it STRONGLY (as you guys do) in a daily driver, rally car or some other hard-driven car ESPECIALLY a street or Drag racer. Meanie 1 had an 1835 and I purt 40,000 on it without a problem.

Meanie II gets her feelings hurt when you talk bad about the 1835 shocked

njgt-1 · February 15, 2009, 11:49:49 AM

QuoteBTW this disdain for the 1835cc VW is bothersome. Yes OVER TIME the bases of the cylinders CAN square out towards the cylinder studs. But on a street car were talking 35-50,000 miles. On a drag car...well that's different. 50k on a weekend car is 20 years. Most of us will rebuild the motor out of boredome at least twice in that time span

Don't want to P... on your parade but check around, everybody who knows their S%&T would never use 92s in an engine. The evidence is that don't shed heat as well as a stock thickness cylinder, are more prone to overheating and at best you will get 5000 miles before they start to self destruct. They don't "square out" but they distort over the length of the cylinder. That in itself will cause the rings to not seal and you'll get a severe case of blow by. I've talked with people who think running a rich mixture would keep the cylinders running cooler and this does for a while until the out of wack air fuel ratio thins out the oil lubing the rings and you get wear anyway. You might have gotten lucky with the first car but why chance it? A 1776 built right will give you 85% life over a stock engine, thats 85000 miles! There is very little difference in power and over the long haul when your 1835 is dying after a 5000 or so miles the 1776 will still be running strong.

Heres a good place to start reading... http://www.geneberg.com

Nobody hates the 1835, just the junk merchants who push this stuff onto Vdub fans and then tells them how their engine will run thousands of "trouble free" miles and have all the power in the world! I'm not flaming you but I hate to see people throw money into something thats not going to last when they could have had a better experience with just a little research and planning. just my 2CENTS

One other thing, you guys were right about the pertronix distributor, I thought you just had the module in an 009.

Baha (Shawn) · February 15, 2009, 11:53:28 AM

Quote from: njgt-1 on February 15, 2009, 11:49:49 AM

One other thing, you guys were right about the pertronix distributor, I thought you just had the module in an 009.

I do

Baha (Shawn) · February 15, 2009, 06:49:59 PM

Not to poke a snake with a stick but this is buggin' the s*!t out of me.

Needless to say I've been stewing all day. Correct me if I'm wrong...Aren't there 2 different 92mm cylinders? One that slips in and a thick wall that you machine the case for? Meanie 1's case was machined when I went 1835 and I seem to remember the reason was to use the "Thick Wall" cylinders. BTW NOTHING was made in China back then.

njgt-1 · February 16, 2009, 12:14:41 AM

QuoteNot to poke a snake with a stick but this is buggin' the s*!t out of me.

Needless to say I've been stewing all day. Correct me if I'm wrong...Aren't there 2 different 92mm cylinders? One that slips in and a thick wall that you machine the case for? Meanie 1's case was machined when I went 1835 and I seem to remember the reason was to use the "Thick Wall" cylinders. BTW NOTHING was made in China back then.

Nope, you are thinking of 88mm "slip ins". they can be either 88s slip ins or 88s machine ins. You don't see them much anymore since its easier to machine in a set of 90.5's and have a thicker cylinder also the 88s will give you a big 1679ccs. A stock 1600 uses 85.5mm cylinders. If you use "Cima / Mahl" brand cylinders you have nothing to worry about these are not made in china. To confuse things more these come with either a "Forged piston" or "standard" or an "A piston" or a "B piston" the difference being one is used with a stroker crank and has a relocated pin position to make setting compression "deck height" easier . Most of the Cima / Mahl cylinders today also use a graphite coated piston to cut friction, I've got these in my 1776.

Beetleboi -Greg- · February 16, 2009, 01:36:37 AM

12:41 Bob are you sick?!?! Usually it's just Bud and I up at this tim of night!!! :D :D :D :D

njgt-1 · February 16, 2009, 05:56:49 AM

Quote12:41 Bob are you sick?!?! Usually it's just Bud and I up at this tim of night!!!

Yea, some nights I just can't

worrying about you guys and what engines ya all are going to build (love