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[Baha (Shawn)]

I am going to tear the 1835 down and "Televise" it on YouTube.

What I am hoping to do is tear down the motor (not sure how far)and record the entire process and post it on YouTube. The "experts" in the club can then comment and/or make suggestions for upgrades, replacements, where to get parts etc.

Time is of the escence. I want this thing done quickly as the Dust-em-Off Cruise is April 18th.

I'm not sure if this will work or not, but if it does, it'll be a great archive!

Volunteers are needed online to view/read/help AND are welcome to come to my house to assist live (That would be appreciated) PM me if you want to come over.

I will pull the motor tomorrow evening and get the garage (tent  :icon_cry:) setup

Teardown begins Saturday, After early trips to Fazzio's & Harbor Freight. 1st round will be just down to the heads being removed. Video & stills will be posted right after it's done, for your evaluation & suggestion.

Any suggestions before I begin?

[6T5 square]

Any suggestions before I begin?

Yeah, get heat in the garage and give us a little more than two days notice  :icon_geek: :-*

[njgt-1]

eah, get heat in the garage and give us a little more than two days notice 

what he said!
its not gonna work. You can't see things like deck height, end play, air leaks & small cracks in the heads.

Just a suggestion, run a compression check and cylinder leak down before pulling anything apart. This might give you a clue as to what to look for before you perform surgery. 

[Baha (Shawn)]

Yeah, get heat in the garage and give us a little more than two days notice  :icon_geek: :-*

As if you were gonna show up anyway, you curmudgeon.  .///  And BTW it's got heat. Gas heat. Not some stinky kerosene monster or worse, what you do..."hoping the sun comes out cause it's free"  777

As far as notice... I actually really need the help during assembly, but if somebody needs to get out of the house ;-) they're welcome to come over.

And now to address the "helpful" reply

You can't see things like deck height, end play, air leaks & small cracks in the heads.
     Just a suggestion, run a compression check and cylinder leak down before pulling anything apart. This might give you a clue as to what to look for before you perform surgery. 

You CAN see readings on calipers & micrometers. I'm not worried about the presentation.
I intended to take "baseline" measurements on everything before I start.

Thanks Bob

[lovebus (jack)]

When you pull the engine, why don't you take an extra hour and try a stock manifold and carb first and run it on the floor.. If you don't have one i'll lend you one. I may be wrong but I think you going the wrong way with this.

[Baha (Shawn)]

For the record... I'm pulling the motor to demistify it. I have no idea of what's in this motor, and have known since Rick worked on it that it needs work. The valves are all buggered up. The rockers are a mess. (I have SKATs but Rick couldn't get them on cause of the valves.) It has dual valve springs and aluminum pushrods... I intend to correct this stuff AND find out why it being wacky. This problem is just the push I needed to get it done.


Now Jack,  it sounds like you are thinking, maybe it's regular dieseling compounded by the Dellortos  letting enough fuel by to keep the motor running? eh?  (Sorry I said Dellortos so now I'm typing with an italian accent)

[lovebus (jack)]

Now Jack,  it sounds like you are thinking, maybe it's regular dieseling compounded by the Dellortos  letting enough fuel by to keep the motor running? eh?  (Sorry I said Dellortos so now I'm typing with an italian accent)

Thats what I'm thinking.  It's better to find the problem before you do all the work and have the same thing happening. I don't think its carbon or something getting to hot because you don't have to have the engine running to long for it to happen.
I do think you have an air leak also because of the one plug you were talking about.

[Baha (Shawn)]

I don't think its carbon or something getting to hot because you don't have to have the engine running too long for it to happen.

The problem with that plug is...Rick couldnt change it when he did the work so the damage could have been very old. I will run out and pull the current #3 plug & post a photo of it and the old one.

I do think you have an air leak also because of the one plug you were talking about.

No argument but, whats causing the run-on? With no electricity or distributor cap for that matter it keeps running until it runs out of gas.

I wont pull it tonight... We'll kick it around a little more.

Let me go get that plug out. BRB

[Baha (Shawn)]

OK Bob you nailed it the very first day I posted it. Jack was distracted by coming over and seeing the leaking coil, however he's been uneasy the whole time thinking it was air leak & something. So we have two Gold Medal Winners! bronz_cup-winner


Now look at the plug I removed after less than 1 hour (next to a brand new one for comparison)

http://picasaweb.google.com/K2SMD1/BLUEMEANIE?feat=directlink#5312814967543947922

Here is that OLD plug I mentioned. You couldnt see the soot line with the naked eye!!! (Hindsight is 20/20)

http://picasaweb.google.com/K2SMD1/BLUEMEANIE?feat=directlink#5312814948677193122


So Sensei Jack & Sensai Bob, what to do now?

[njgt-1]

Forget the plugs for a minute,

You have a  set of 40mm DRLAs so what size are the following..

Idle jets
Main jets
venturis
Air correctors
emulsion tubes

If you have a "lean out" condition caused by a too small jet and a small air leak thats enough to turn that plug into a flame thrower. that plug isn't melted ( thats almost impossible, the head would melt first its aluminum ) but its almost white instead of a nice tan. I doubt if the builder spent any time setting up those carbs. Don't take anything apart until you know what you are dealing with. If its jets then its an easy fix. If its an air leak a set of the fiber intake gaskets on the heads would solve that problem. Think this one out its not that hard.

[lovebus (jack)]

You can see very plainly that the plug has BAD blow by and is not seated in the head. If its blowing by that bad it is sucking in air that bad also. I give up on saying it may be your carbs because it goes nowhere.  NO FUEL NO RUN.

[Baha (Shawn)]

Rick set-up and re-jetted the carbs. Without my copybook I cant remember the specs but I think it comes with .60's and Rick took it down to .55's (or 50's to 45's) Either way they were right.

Note: Rick did not replace the number 3 plug (I dropped one on the garage floor while loading it up to take to Rick)
I replaced it when the car came home. The photo called Old Plug 1 is the one I removed. You cant see the blowby pattern on it with the (my) naked eye...It showed up on camera.

It's a 5 minute job to take the motor out of my car. I can then put it up on a bench to get a better look. I promise not to take anything (except tins) apart without you guys checking out more photos and recommending it. That being said, I await your next thoughts.

[Baha (Shawn)]

The spark plug hole threads are shot...Massive leak.

http://picasaweb.google.com/K2SMD1/BLUEMEANIE#5313163162372753874

Enough carbon in the combustion chamber to provide good ignition source.
Found a couple of small holes where the machining got too close to the stud holes.

http://picasaweb.google.com/K2SMD1/BLUEMEANIE#5313163160774117266

The copper cylinder shims are on the bottom of the cylinders. There are none in the head.
Very minor scratches in 1 cylinder (not enough to feel) No burning or scoring.

Cylinders measure 92mm. Top of pistons are 10mm below top of cylinder wall

No burnt valves. Rockers are all rounded off (I knew this)

No need to get into bottom end


Thoughts? Questions?

[lovebus (jack)]

The spark plug hole threads are shot...Massive leak. THAT CAN BE FIXED YOU CAN SEE THAT CYL WAS RUNNING LEAN.

http://picasaweb.google.com/K2SMD1/BLUEMEANIE#5313163162372753874

Enough carbon in the combustion chamber to provide good ignition source.  CARBON NOT THAT BAD
Found a couple of small holes where the machining got too close to the stud holes.  THATS NOT A PROBLEM

http://picasaweb.google.com/K2SMD1/BLUEMEANIE#5313163160774117266

The copper cylinder shims are on the bottom of the cylinders. There are none in the head. DON'T NEED THEM IN THE HEAD UNLESS YOU COMPRESSION IS TO HIGH
Very minor scratches in 1 cylinder (not enough to feel) No burning or scoring.

Cylinders measure 92mm. Top of pistons are 10mm below top of cylinder wall  10MM, THAT SOUND LIKE A LOT, DID YOU BY ANY CHANCE DO A COMPRESSION TEST

No burnt valves. Rockers are all rounded off (I knew this) ROCKERS OR VALVS ROUNDED?

No need to get into bottom end


Thoughts? Questions?

[Baha (Shawn)]

The underside of the adjusters are all buggered (faceted like a diamond), the tops of the valves are in good shape.

Q?) What (or whom) do you recommend for repair of spark plug threads (Is it a Heli-coil?)

I feel like a complete idiot. Jay cam over to help me pull it, I saw that the plug was hosed and got distracted and completely forgot to do the compression check.

The cylinder stud in #3 by the little hole did have signs of small amount of carbon on it.

Q?) If I put the thinnest copper shim (.040) in each, wouldn't that seal those holes from leaking and have a minimum effect on the compression?

Q?) What is the recommended course of action?